RALEIGH — For years, advocates and elected officials have failed to reckon with one of the most pressing and underreported access crises facing Raleigh’s residential neighborhoods. The affected communities have no organized advocacy. No nonprofit has adopted their cause. Not a single city council member has introduced a resolution.
Hayes Barton. Oakwood. Cameron Park. Mordecai.
These neighborhoods have no fast food restaurants. At least not within walking distance, and especially not with a Bob double or triple stroller.
“I don’t think people understand what it’s like,” said Meredith Cavanaugh-Holt, 54, a Hayes Barton resident who asked that her address on Carr Street not be published. “If I want a Number Two from McDonald’s, I have to get in the car and drive to Western Boulevard. Western Boulevard. Do you know how many foreign engineering students are driving on Western at lunch?”
This reporter does not.
The nearest Chick-fil-A to Cameron Park is approximately 0.4 miles away, a distance that locals described as “not walkable, not really” — particularly on Sundays, when Ann-Preston and Hemingway are being shuttled from church with specific and non-negotiable opinions about waffle fries, and the restaurant is closed anyway.
“We’ve tried cooking them at home,” said one Cameron Park father, who declined to give his name but was wearing a Raleigh Country Club quarter-zip. “The children know the difference. They always know.”
The neighborhoods sit within what researchers classify as a Fast Food Desert: a geographic area in which residents must travel more than one mile to access a drive-through window, experience a branded soft drink dispenser that is always broken, or obtain french fries not prepared in duck fat, goose fat, or a proprietary blend described as “house-made.”
The situation has forced some residents into increasingly difficult workarounds.
“There’s a place on Glenwood that does a passable truffle fry,” said one Oakwood homeowner, who purchased her 1924 Craftsman bungalow for what she described as “considerably less than it’s worth now.” “But it’s not the same. And the valet situation on weekend evenings is, frankly, a lot.”
Hayes-Barton Cafe & Dessertery has tried to fill the gap, providing a burger and fries option alongside their high-end offerings involving chicken, meatloaf, and wedge salads.
“No one’s fooled,” said Frank Ballard, the cafe’s owner. “Apparently fast food can’t take more than ten seconds to make, and the American flag on a toothpick just kills the Circus Burger vibe some people need.”
For now, most residents say they are managing.
“The [Country] Club has a perfectly good burger,” said Cavanaugh-Holt. “But sometimes you just want to eat something in your car, from a bag, without anyone knowing. You know what I mean?”
She paused.
“You probably don’t know what I mean.”
Kent Davison covers local government, infrastructure, and fast food accessibility for Ungrammared. He can be reached by people who have his number.